So the arrival of September saw us sail into Fiji after the most heinous two day journey! However, my goodness what a place we arrived in. We came into Fiji at the Northern Lau Group where Oyster had organised customs officials to fly up to check us all in coming on board Sophistikate in our dinghy with four of them on board (see them in the photo) – this saved us having to sail all the way to Vanua Levu, check in and then sail back to experience this group of islands. 
We anchored in Vanua Belavu off the small village. This island, northern Lau’s largest island, was hit last year by a huge cyclone and the damage to the island is still very highly visible – however, the local people are so positive and kind that you would not credit what has happened to them. They have very, very few visitors as the island is just so remote – although there is a grass airstrip with a flight once a week. There are no banks, hotels, shops, bars or restaurants and there are no guest houses and any visitors must approach the island Chiefs and arrange a homestay so only the most intrepid of tourists ever get here and few outsiders get to experience the hospitality of the locals. The island is outrageously scenic and sits inside a barrier reef together with eight other, smaller islands. The islands sort of curl around the surrounding water with numerous sheltered bays and corridors of very calm sea.
The islanders held a party for the whole Oyster fleet – regardless of the fact that we paid them for the meal – how they managed to get sufficient food together to feed over 100 people was just beyond belief. Everything they have is either caught or grown and the feast included crabs, fish and pork, aubergines and vegetables and was simply splendid all prepared by the women from the village and put out on trestle tables covered in brightly coloured cloth. To welcome us to their village and allow us to freely visit they hold a sevusevu (a gift) ceremony where we present them with kava root (which is turned into a drink) and this ceremony involves the Chief and the elders from the village. There was then an evening of dancing (meke) by the local families and so much effort went into welcoming us that it really was overwhelming – the most wonderful interactive experience and one very few people will ever have.
Going round the island in a pick-up truck highlighted the devastation caused by Cyclone Winston back in early 2016 with Australia Aid tarpaulins over shelters and aid tents still being used as housing. The rebuilding of the secondary school is almost finished (financed by New Zealand) and 120 pupils are already back using it. We gave reading and adjustable glasses to the clinic and pens and notepads – El Mundo gave a solar charger and others fish hooks and other useful things all of which were very gratefully received. This is a small island maybe two miles across with approx. 2000 people – the incumbent PM of Fiji comes from here and has a house (considerably smarter than any of the others!). The interior is full of rugged hills and there are pristine beaches scattered around its edge. The people of this island were so friendly to us and so very positive about rebuilding and getting on with their lives it was very humbling and i take very special memories away from here.
We sailed from Vanua Belavu to the famous Bay of Islands (Qilaqila) in the northwest which was an extraordinary place accessible by a very few yachties and consisted of a group of small islands just off the coast scattered with rocks. Totally idyllic and stunningly beautiful it is a spectacular spot for snorkelling and kayaking and swimming – when we arrived there was just one boat anchored and then 25 Oysters descended upon the place I did feel very sorry for the lone boat! There were huge fruit bats flying just yards from our boat each evening and they are the spookiest things up close! There are numerous underwater caves that can be dived in and out full of small bats and iridescent turquoise waters. We all went off on a dinghy safari which was super fun exploring all the caves.
Our lives continue on board in a whirl of swimming, canoeing, trekking, paddle boarding, bbq’s and general maintenance all in the most amazing environment. Sailing on to Matagi which is just 1km sq and formed by a submerged volcanic crater and the sides covered in rainforest just rise up above us – but bizarrely there is an island resort (a very expensive one!). As we left three humpback whales swam alongside us which was just wonderful and Oscar sent up his drone and captured some wonderful footage (when it is ready I will post the link).
On Taveuni we set off with Joe and Cathy and hiked up the Tavoro Falls which was some endeavour and left all very shattered! Taveuni is where the dateline is and you can have one foot in one day and one in the next!
We went out to the Rainbow Reef to dive and snorkel in crystal clear and calm waters and it was totally wonderful with the most extraordinary coral formations. Truly wonderful diving.
Namena Island was legendary in diving circles as having the most wonderful diving in all of Fiji – however, the Cyclone has caused utter chaos. We stopped here and dived but whilst the coral was beginning to regrow there is an enormous amount of damage. On the small island was a very exclusive resort which has been utterly destroyed – there were caretakers on the island beginning to clear the wreckage so that rebuilding can begin. What was totally wonderful here was that it is a breeding site for the red footed booby – the chicks were just everywhere and it was so enchanting to watch them in such devastation.
Sailing up along the main island of Viti Levu we see a huge grey Navy boat and then it does a u-turn and comes straight towards us. A big rib gets launched and then six big guys all in flak gear with guns are coming alongside – we are going at 8.5 knots under full sail and they ask permission to board. Seeing them come along beside us and then boarding us whilst we do not slow at all was awesome – my goodness they are talented. Turns out they are NZ Navy working with Fijian customs and they are checking documentation but primarily showing a presence in the waters to stop Chinese and Japanese fishing fleets illegally fishing in their waters.
Sophistikate 