What is so striking about Viti Levu (the main island in the group) is the melting pot of culture. Many Indians were brought here in the late 18thC as indentured workers by the British. Theirs has been a checkered history and not something I will go into here but for us we found the temples, people and culture fascinating. Hindus, Muslims and Buddhists make up a very large percentage of the community and there are temples and mosques along with Christian churches. We visited a Krishna temple and as a first for me I found it an amazingly warm and embracing experience. All the religious groups have schools and so there does appear to be a lot of social separation.
Richard and I took the time to explore the main island off the boat and spent six days in three different locations. For some reason known only to him R felt it necessary to travel to Lautoka known locally as the Sugar City home to the largest sugar mill in Fiji. He has been fascinated by the sheer volume of sugar cane which we see growing here and which is processed in the factory here before being exported from the docks right next door. The smoke and ash that come from the factory cover the surrounding areas and the burning of the fields around the island once the cane has been harvested is fairly horrid raining black ash constantly onto the boat. The main island is the hub of tourism and we were positively swamped by tourist buses, boats, excursion offers, parasailing in the bay, seaplanes and helicopters all buzzing around – a very long way from the traditional places we have seen as we crossed the South Pacific and quite a shock to the system.
All organised by Richard we spent two nights in what he described as plastic fantastic hotel on the Coral Coast which was a huge hotel complex but actually quite pleasant. We had a go at kayaking up the river here and the result was hilarious – to say we are competitive is an understatement but I did feel that R wasn’t putting his heart into it! We were determined to make it three miles upriver to a small island but my god was it hard – we bickered about who was using the right technique all the way up there and every time a boat passed us we tried to look like we were relaxed and pros. By the time we got back to the start point I was puce red and very sweaty – curiously R who was in the back did not seem to have broken a sweat…funny that! We watched with interest whilst an American couple decided they’d have a go – it was hysterical (sorry) to see them first go round in circles and then wobble precariously before upending themselves – very unkindly made me feel better!!!
We spent a night in an eco lodge in the rainforest above Suva which was on the edge of the nature reserve where there were spectacular treks to be had. We walked miles through the forests encountering many birds and lush rainforest with clear natural falls and teeming with tropical plants and vivid birds. Then on to Suva where we spent two days in a wonderful hotel – used as our base to explore the city. Suva is home to half the country’s urban population and is the largest city in the South Pacific. We visited the wonderful Fiji Museum which gives a great feel for the historical and cultural evolution – fascinating place.
We then sailed up into the Yasawas which took us back to the more remote islands. There are still plenty of boats bringing up day trippers but the further up the chain we went the less this was in evidence. We had a wonderful early morning snorkelling after manta rays which is totally magical. It is up to us to keep up with the rays and swimming against the current is not easy! The Blue Lagoon movie was filmed up here in Nanuya Lailai (those of you old enough to remember) and it is really very beautiful. Some of the islands have very unusual volcanic rock formations, with caves and coral cliffs and some spectacular snorkelling.
And then all too soon it is time for us to bid goodbye to Fiji – what a totally magical place it is.
Having spent six weeks cruising around the Fijian islands it is my favourite place of the trip do date. The people are just so exceptionally warm and friendly – despite many of the islands being extremely poor and still trying to get themselves back on their feet following the Cyclone Winston damage they remain totally upbeat and generous of both themselves and their things. What has struck me after ten months is that we have been privileged to see a side of the world that it is virtually impossible for normal travellers to experience. We are able to get to tucked away spots where very few travellers can reach – it is these wonderful memories that I will treasure for the rest of my life.
NEW ZEALAND…..
New Zealand and after eight days of fairly hideous windward sailing during which I consumed way more than the recommended dose of stugeron; the front heads window, the bunkbed room window, the VIP forward cabin window and then finally in the last two days the starboard side front saloon hatch all leaked water we made landfall. Our girl has taken a real hammering as have we and whatever others might say this is definitely not a trip for the feint hearted! Or I am just a major wimp which is possible! The memories however are worth everything. Enormously emotional to think that we have done this journey which has certainly been the very toughest but the most fulfilling adventure I could ever have wished for. I am sure I look ten years older and I certainly feel it but my goodness what an achievement. From Ipswich to Antigua to New Zealand via so many, many wonderful places and having made so many wonderful friends this trip will certainly stay with us all for a lifetime. We could never have done this without our wonderful crew Charlotte and Oscar and we will be forever grateful to them for putting up with us so long!
Now we will spend a few weeks exploring New Zealand before heading home….
We pottered around the Mamanucas poking into little anchorages and snorkelling off the reefs whilst watching small sea planes land right alongside us in one anchorage which was very special.
We anchored off Mala Mala Island which is a private beach club – the club tender came out to pick us up and we swam in the infinity pool and sipped cocktails with the boat anchored just off. The kids celebrated a chum’s birthday with a whole day on Mala Mala Island – R and I spent the day on the far side of this tiny island in a beach cabana facing the ocean and far away from the booming music. 
We also went to Cloud 9 which Sophie was uber keen to visit as is a sort of floating Soho House bar/pizza restaurant right out on the reef – it was totally dreadful and full of tourists! 
But they enjoyed it which was the whole point and the location is wonderful with the reef right outside – we anchored the boat quite close and spent the morning out on the reef. 
Oscar taught Sophie to scuba dive here in about 9 metres of water which was perfect – she took to it brilliantly and had a wonderful dive with me snorkelling along trying to take interesting photos! 
It was utterly wonderful to have us all together and I so enjoyed the time which sadly, as always, went way too fast and was just so sad saying goodbye as she flew back to Hong Kong and work…..
All the contact these guys have with the outside world comes from visiting yachts or freight vessels and there are very few of them – yachties are entitled to be given a welcome with one of the islanders being appointed as your host. It is then their job to go and get you from your boat and bring you to their island and show you around and extend hospitality. Bob Marsters was our host and took us to his family home and introduced his wife and three children. His three other children have left the island and gone to Australia but because education in the island is a problem they do not have qualifications for the outside world (says Bob) and he tells them they are much richer living in Palmerston and subsisting from the land and the sea. Palmerston has its own council comprising of six of the most senior (in terms of age) men – two from each branch of the family to represent each of the first three wives from whence they all descend. The island is split into three also representing those three wives and their offspring. We were given lunch consisting of rice, chicken, noodles and wahoo together with some small pancakes made from coconut and flour. Bob showed us the three different types of coconut (different ages) and what they were used for demonstrating how to hull one which Oscar had been really keen to have a go at for a while now. No part of the palm is wasted with fronds used for roofing when plaited, firewood and kindle, the husks are used for cooking fuel and some of it for food for their chickens and pigs. Bob took us off to meet Bill who lived in the centre of the island and was such a hoot – at one point I thought we were being kidnapped! As I was taken deeper into his house and shown his three huge fridge freezers it was very funny and a little like a horror movie!! Fortunately, Bill wasn’t a mad axe murderer and gave us ice cream cones whilst showing us his family photographs which included his Grandfather on board the Royal yacht Britannia when Philip visited back in 1972 and this was very proudly displayed. Their British heritage is incredibly important to them and everywhere you go portraits of Queen Elizabeth are hanging on walls – in triplicate in some instances. 
Sophistikate 