San Blas

Fun in the sun

Well we made it – we finally got to somewhere that is what was sold to me when signing up for the trip!  Coming across 29 hours from Cartegana to the San Blas with horrid high seas and rolling, rolling, rolling – yug!  Sat on my wonderful seat on the bow watching the sea and then dolphins and suddenly I saw land – felt just like the seafarers of old.  Then more land – this 400 odd island archipelago is amazing and covers a broad area.  It is an independent indigenous territory. The San Blas are just idyllic with tiny palm strewn islands in turquoise azure sea surrounded by coral reefs and thus amazingly protected. We dinghy ashore and have a beach bbq – oh it is so pretty and we are the only boat anchored.

The Kuna people are tiny and very friendly – surviving and preserving their ways and fiercely hanging on to their independence from Panama.  They fish in small wooden dug-out canoes and bring lobster and crab round the boats to sell – very cheaply.  Oscar and Malcolm then cooked and served them beautifully but I discovered they were cracking the shells using my Mac knives and they completely messed them up – neither would admit guilt but Malcolm was actually caught red handed with my paring knife!

14^th is Valentines Day and our wedding anniversary and saw the most colossal torrential rainstorm.  Our planned bbq on the beach was not to be!  We played Mexican Dominoes for hours and had a really wonderful time.  Charlotte had blown up red heart balloons and tied them around the saloon (sadly they looked like boobs when inflated and as they went down men’s genitalia) not the look she was hoping to achieve!  We stayed anchored in east Coco Banderos for four days and were the only boat – we swam to the island and walked round and swam and ate on the beach was total heaven – white sand and waving palms land.  Kuna came to the boat selling mola which are hand sewn in more traditional Kuna geometric designs and the more modern fish; turtles etc – they are delightful and the woman selling so sweet.  The molas are made of brightly coloured squares of fabric sewn together.

We moved on to Salardup where we encountered Lisa – the transvestite master mola maker.  We of course had to buy more of her wonderful creations.  She suggested she could take us on a trip into the Kuna Yala on the mainland in her canoe and we would walk up to a waterfall.  Off the intrepid explorers trekked anticipating a gentle stroll and wonderful swim.  What a different idea she had!  No thought for health and safety here – we walked through rainforest and up hills and down – through rivers (Charlotte was the first casualty falling and grazing her knee in the first river) on and on we went whilst Lisa strode out at the front saying just another 20 minutes quite regularly.  We passed a large gathering of kuna who were burying a baby that had died on the mainland after being taken to hospital and was being brought back to be buried on family ground.  A remarkably moving vision – children and adults brightly dressed.  Eventually we came to a clearing and a waterfall was indeed in front of us.  Lisa and our other young guide then proceeded to tell us we must jump in from a very high precipice!  Bear in mind until now she hadn’t even asked if we could all swim!  Malcolm not to be undone by the youngsters careered off the top – D and Richard swam in the bottom where there were lots of little fish that kept nibbling at us (most disconcerting!).  At this point she tells us we are swimming back down the falls and off we went clambering over boulders and jumping and falling as we go!  A really wonderful day that we will all remember long after the bruises have gone!!

We visited many of the islands – some uninhabited and some with maybe one or two families living in huts with palm leaf roofs, livestock and little else.  We visited a kuna village close to the mainland and were offered a ‘fresh plucked from the water’ iguana!  The village had around 200 people in it and we bought fresh bread (muda) and had to drink beer with the chief (or one of them each island seems to have about three chiefs) at 10am in the morning – something that does not sit happily in the stomach!  Our guide – Leoni – was about 4ft 1” he is stood next to me in the picture – took us all round showing us the church, the community gathering house, the school, bar etc.  A delightful chap. 

Charlotte’s birthday was celebrated with a grilled fish and rice lunch on shore made by a family who allowed backpackers to camp on their small island – a simple meal but very tasty.  The family were again very friendly.  We swam on the reef and saw a small reef shark just metres away.  Fernancio then found us – another master mola maker and his designs were amazing – we are going to have to open a shop back home to sell on all this stuff!

We headed back to the Coco Bandero to meet up with some other Oysters for a beach bbq which was enormous fun.  Our freezer gave up the ghost and we managed to distribute some of the contents amongst a couple of the boats and then provided enough meat for the entire beach party.

Porto Linto we moored in the marina which was extremely well made.  Nothing at all on shore only a huge building half finished and a portakabin.  The dock manager took a real shine to me telling me through bloodshot eyes (possibly a chemical influence as well as alcohol) how very lovely I was.  Just think D said you could be living here in that portakabin if you play your cards right!

Portobelo saw us anchoring in the bay amidst a number of boats that had gone aground and were just left with masts protruding.  A huge fort built by the Spanish back in 1700s dominated the town which was very poor and rundown – and then all too soon we were heading to Shelter Bay Marina in 30 knots again and only a foresail.

To get into Shelter Bay you have to cross the entrance to the Panama Canal – there were huge boats everywhere as they anchor outside waiting to be told they can proceed – it was an awesome sight and really quite frightening – we had to stand off for nearly an hour in huge seas before we were given permission to proceed.  Oscar has shown he is made of stern stuff on this trip making terrific decisions and leading the boat team brilliantly.  We made it into the marina and refuelled and then took our mooring and before we know it the first part of our journey is over – next stop is through the canal on 16^th March.  Before that we have to be measured – you pay for the crossing by the foot!  Sadly a 40ft yacht went aground last night in 30 knot winds trying to get into the marina – a salutary lesson for us all as very dangerous waters.  The poor people were so shocked and it was immensely sad.  Our hotel room was given up for them and two other yachts took people on board.  Oscar with a couple of other crew tried to get their boat off the reef together with the marina tender the following morning but were not able to – they have to wait for the tug.  Their dream shattered.

We have booked into the marina hotel here just to get some space for everyone – two months so far and you do need to have a break.

Richard and I have spent a few days now in the most uber trendy hotel in Panama City – so funny with themed rooms (we are in Andy Warhol!).  Took the hop on hop off bus round the City yesterday which was very interesting indeed.  We are staying in Casco Viejo which is the old ancient part of the town which is overshadowed by a vast new town of shimmering glass and steel skyscrapers.  Chaotic place and really buzzing – a mix of chic clubs, international banking, crumbled ancient ruins and slums with construction work going on pretty much everywhere as they gentrify.  The Canal is awesome – we visited the Miraflores Lock and the scale of the thing is breathtaking.  I can’t actually believe we will be going through it.  22,000 people were killed building the lock and the museum was extremely thought provoking.  Panama hats have been purchased – of course!

Deborah and Malcolm heading off to explore Panama before flying home on the 12^th and we had to say goodbye to them after 7 weeks on board.  Deborah has taught me how to do amazing things with leftovers, shown us how to create a mean houmous and focaccia bread.  She has been the most superb fun and is a hell of a lot stronger than she looks – I am still marvelling at her ability to sleep in the forecabin in 50+ knots of wind!  Malcolm is such a trooper and so kind with a mean sense of humour, he is our ace weather and people watcher, has nerves of steel and an ability to handle a watch for hours on end.  It has been a very real privilege for us to have shared this first leg of the journey with them and we are all enormously sad to see them go – we will miss them a lot.  Thank you Deborah and Malcolm.

As a footnote can I say that whilst it looks from the photos as though I only have one blue and white stripy t-shirt and shorts I actually have ten pairs of shorts and four of the same t-shirt!